The coil (that big spring under the wheel arch) went I had to have a new one. I noticed gearstick vibration while accelearting in 1st and 2nd gear. Once upto speed there was no vibration and the car cruises as normal. I felt it seemed to calm down. I had new front suspensions and the vibrating gearstick is back. If I pull off and continue accelerating in 2nd it gets worse till I change to 3rd.
I am not sure if this is related to the new coils and suspensions, or if it is just a co-incidence and it’s something else.
John if you have to take it in to get it tracked get them to check the engine and gearbox mounts worn mounts will cause that problem and a failing drive shaft will to some extent. Normally bad tracking is more noticeable through the steering wheel. The track rod ends should have been in the same position they where before the suspension replacement ( normally no need to loosen them unless they are being replaced) so should still be straight.
I have had bad tracking cause heavy steering, pulling to the side and odd tire wear but, as yet, not a vibrating gear stick. I did have a worn CV joint cause vibration but it also caused a loud knocking when I turned a corner 🤔
Thanks all for the suggestions I will have to take it back and get them to check. I am just hoping no more coinage is needed. I wanted to get my money back in usage before the next round.
I agree with Mark regarding worn engine mounts, if steering alignment is out that would cause steering column shake but not gear stick vibration. John, did they check the other side coil, and the mounting plates under the bonnet? Also, have the tyres been changed from before the spring repair? If not, look at the front tyres one by one, turn the wheel lock to lock (engine running, to save the steering pump*) and note how the tyres are worn. The side with the broken spring should have had more wear (depending on how long you ran it with the spring broken).
But as a rule, if there is equal wear on each tyre, on the same edge: alignment is out. Equal wear on the inside of the edge of the treads of both tyres = “toeing out”. Equal wear on the outside edge of both tyres = “toeing in”. This YT video explains it a bit more:
Problem with an explanation of this, is that modern suspension and steering is more complex, especially for front wheel drive cars like your Peugeot. Used to be just taking some off one end of a rack and add a bit to the other. Now it needs proper alignment of often several components. Don’t let them get away with just “tracking” John: ask for steering alignment.
Just remembered that I also found this problem once to be both drive shafts worn. *Incidentally, never, ever park with front wheels turned one way or t’other. Continually doing this puts increased wear on the steering pump. And I see a lot of cars parked like that.
When the Thought Police arrive at your door, think -
I'm out.
I will not your suggestions, with the others. At the moment it seems to be settling down, I have to take it back for them to check the tracking, as they suggested after it has run 50 miles or so. Only going A-B for now.
If you have never used the air-con there probably IS something wrong with the refrigerant gas pressure by now and it needs regassing. However as you have never had it switched on, it obviously has no relevance to your other problems.
If it had been switched on it is remotely possible that the gas compressor may have vibrated enough to affect your gear lever, but I think that is also unlikely unless a compressor bearing had gone wrong and not just seized.
Does the vibration vary with the speed of the engine (Revs) or the speed of the car ?
If you’re not sure you could try putting your hand on the gear stick with the car stationary and in neutral and then increasing the Revs up to about 5K.
If you feel a vibration doing that then it could be something attached to the engine (like the aircon compressor) at fault. Time to get out the wooden stethoscope 😁
Years ago I had trouble with a Mazda and vibration. Of all things it turned out to be the AC drive belt which had a hard, or stiffened area where some ID had been applied to the inside track. This was only found after the compressor clutch had been needlessly replaced. A cheap replacement belt work flawlessly until I sold the car several years later. However, that was probably a one off bizarre event.
Not that unusual Richard, its exactly the sort of thing that happens to me 😂
I forgot to mention above that while revving the engine with the car in neutral its a good idea to try pressing the clutch in and out to see if that makes a difference.
Could very well be an AC issue John. Follow the actions in Graham’s link (WoFire) and see what happens. Might be compressor or a bearing in the end drive, where it drives the pulley.
It’s a good idea to use the aircon occasionally. It won’t use that much fuel, but the catch with mechanical stuff is that if you don’t use it, it can cause problems. If you have to regass, shop around first. Places that carry this out vary wildly in price, I find.
When the Thought Police arrive at your door, think -
I'm out.
Bob, that is a very true statement. I used a travelling AC person to come to the house, it was very convenient. The system had not been touched for at least 8 years but was still not far off the expected range. He appeared to do nothing but AC servicing and was very focussed, with purpose made kit, knowledgable and reasonable. Others might vary, a lot.
If traveling over 30mph you get better mpg with the air con on than cracking a window open.
Also the hit on mpg is minimal from aircon. I personally always run hot, so always have my aircon on. Even in the winter, the heat will be on 20 for the first 10 mins, then always put back to 16. I lose about 10miles over a tank of fuel. Which in min is 290miles. Give or take. As I said a loss not worth thinking about.
Does the vibration vary with the speed of the engine (Revs) or the speed of the car ? 😁
It was only in 1st & 2nd gear, once it reached 3000rpm (in either) it would stop.
Thanks again for all the suggestions, it’s sorted.
I left it with the garage (whom did the coils) when I went back 8hrs later it was still on the ramp. It finnally came down and was took for a test drive. I was told it was all sorted. They did this and that but who knows what it actually was, I cant work it from this n that.
I took it a run and it’s how I would expect it, that’ll do for me.
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